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Period Pattern ™ No.23
Men's Cotehardies, c. 1340-1420

Includes patterns for 5 cotehardies and three hoods, in sizes 36-48. These go particularly well with houpelandes from Period Pattern no. 26, hose from nos. 43 & 101, capes from no. 92, and pouches and purses from no. 93.

In the first half of the 14th century the discovery that one could cut the armholes and sleeve caps curved, thus achieving a better fit, caused some change in the basic style of tunics (Period Pattern no.16), and one of these developed into the cotehardie. While tunics continued to be worn for another 200 years, cotehardies became the fashionable thing to wear. Cotehardies were worn by boys and men of all ages and classes for over 200 years, from England to Bohemia, Norway to Spain. There were regional variations in fit as well as sleeve and neck details,, but the basic cut of the cotehardie was the same throughout Europe. Initially men's cotehardies, whether worn long or short, were most often tight to the hips, with long tight sleeves. They were worn over hose (Period Pattern no. 101), and later over a shirt (Period Pattern no. 43) and Puffed chests and full sleeves in several versions became fashionable on men's cotehardies by 1350. Cotehardies were worn with and without hoods, according to the taste of the wearer and the weather.

Cotehardies for men could be plain and somber, or wildly colorful; they could be made of plain linen, wool, or brocaded velvet with gold threads woven into the design, whatever the owner could afford and any sumptuary laws allowed. Heraldic motifs were common on cotehardies. Men began wearing houpelandes (Period Pattern no. 26) over a cotehardie after 1380, and cotehardies as outerwear became unfashionable before 1425. Men's cotehardies evolved into the doublet (Period Patterns no. 43 & no. 53).

No-23, view IV -not dagged- with sleeves from view III - ML, Pennsic, 2006
No.23, view I, red and black particolored cotehardie (no slit), with hood, also view I - Pennsic
No.23, view I prototype, red cotehardie - BW, Germany, 1978
No.23, view V prototype, middle, particolored globose-breasted cotehardie, worn with hood from view I - BW, Germany, 1979
No.23, view I, blue and white particolored cotehardie, worn with a hood with liripipe, Period Pattern #92, view VII, both quilted - SK dressed for a wedding
No-23, view I, no slits or tippits - Pennsic, 2011
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Comments we've received on this pattern:

  • Marc L, 2006"I love your patterns – the documentation is truly second to none. I’ve made all my cotehardies out of it."

    Marc L, 2006
  • Brian T, aka Charles Fleming"Let me say that I love your patterns. The extensive articles, many annotated drawing, and sewing-for-dummies tips (like how to make bias) are all exactly what I need. I have recently put up a web site for my 14th C. SCA stuff, and I make sure to plug your patterns wherever I used them. I don’t know how many people take you up on your request to send you pictures, but please take a look."

    Brian T, aka Charles Fleming

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