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Period Pattern ™ No.90
Women's Undergarments, Ruffs, Collars & Cuffs

Includes patterns for 5 chemises, 2 corsets 2 farthingales (Spanish and French), 2 partelets, 2 bumrolls, neck & wrist ruffs, standing ruff, collar, falling collar, Golilla (Spanish collar), and 4 cuffs (sizes 8-18 included). These are just the thing to wear with the tunics and gowns from Period Patterns no. 16 , 21, 26, 41, 46, 51, 56, and (although sized for women) 58.

Chemises were worn for comfort, to keep body dirt off the outer clothes, and for sleeping. They were also often allowed to show for decoration, at the neck, wrist and/or through slashes in the sleeve or bodice (Period Patterns™ 41, 46, 51 and 56).

Corsets, farthingales (hooped petticoats) and bumrolls reshaped the body into a fashionable silhouette.

These undergarments as well as partelets, ruffs, collars and cuffs were worn for style and social status (the more elaborate and constricting a piece of clothing was, the less practical, thus denoting the higher status of the wearer). Undergarments could be plain or extremely decorative (especially if designed to show); they could be made of linen, wool, fine imported silk, brocaded velvet with gold threads woven into the design, etc. They could be embroidered with silk or metallic threads and sometimes even had jewels sewn on.

No-90 view VI chemise, and views VII and VIII neck and wrist ruffs and cuffs
No-90 view II with trimmed collar and view IV farthingale worn over no56 based on various views
No.90, view III - JB, Pennsic, 1994
No-90 view IV farthingale and view VII ruffs worn with no56 views II and III with some alterations
No-90, view IV, farthingale, and view VIII, bumroll, worn with #56, view I, rear view - Pennsic, 1993
No.90, view II, worn under #41, view VII without oversleeves - KS, Virginia, 2014
No.90, view II, worn under #56, view III without tabs, sleeves or shouler roll - Pennsic, 2014
Visit out photo Album for more photos
You will find the pattern views on the cover in the album section

It was more common to reserve the richer fabrics and decoration (and certainly pearls and jewels!) to areas it would show and to smaller areas like the upper part of chemises which could be “faked” so the expensive fabric was used only where it might show). The limit was whatever the owner could afford (and the sumptuary laws allowed!). Many styles will not have the right shape without the proper undergarments, and others will not look right.

Comments we've received on this pattern:

  • Roberta S, Wichita, KS“I purchased a pattern developed by your organization. I absolutely love it. It was such a big help when I needed to make a chemise for myself and my daughter... The illustrations with #90 are great.”

    Roberta S, Wichita, KS

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